We always wanted to cross the border into Haiti. But when we first arrived in the DR it seemed like a reckless thing to do. We had our hands full with events and challenges here, and going to a place that supposedly would be even worse seemed like a stupid move. Well, the people of Jacmel, and specifically the Hotel Florita in Jacmel put a solid stop to our worries and made us get on the bus and go.
Jean and Joe, manager and owner respectively, answered all our calls and emails as quick as we wrote them and assured us that Jacmel was indeed safe as safe can be. Apparently the city has comparable statistics to Geneva in Switzerland. Statistics I am now inclined to believe.
The road from Port-au-Prince takes you out through the slums and red light district of Carrefour, onwards along the coast to the very badly damaged (by the earthquake) town of Leogane. Once there you take the road that goes left. After two minutes it starts climbing up the first mountain. And it does not stop until you reach Jacmel. The word “Haiti” is derived from the a Taino word and means something like “land of high mountains”. On the way to Jacmel why is self evident. Up and down, mountains and valleys as far as the eye can see. It is beautiful. The road is as windy and hilly as can be, but really quite nice, and a big step up from the terrible roads from the border or around PaP. And despite the hilly landscape you descend towards the sea only about an hour and a half after leaving PaP.
The difference to PaP is immediate and substantial. We simply got off of the bus and walked to the hotel. No one bothering us in the slightest. Just smiles and friendly directions were what we got. And it is gorgeous, sure it is run down and broken but totally stunning at the same time.
The Florita is another historical gem of a hotel. Once the home of the richest family in the city, it has been a hotel for many years now. Most recently lovingly run by Jean, Joe and their team. After the earthquake the hotel was badly damaged, but has now been beautifully restored. The food is great, the rooms are beautiful and there is amazing art everywhere. It’s only two blocks from the beach and right in the center of town, everything is accessible by foot.
The first evening we walked around the neighborhood and were instantly struck by how friendly and laid-back everything and everyone was. Completely unmolested by salespeople we walked into galleries, down to the beach. Talked to shopkeepers, children, tailors and artists. Nobody was anything short of fantastic. And this would continue for our stay. I am not sure why everyone here is so incredibly friendly and welcoming, but I speculate that it might have something to do with the lack of large scale tourism, keeping the economic incentives to harass you to a minimum. Or maybe they are just really nice here? Who knows, Jacmellians certainly seem to take pride in the fact that they are “nicer”. And are quick to remind you that Jacmel is safe and nice, and that you should feel free to walk wherever you like. Of all the places I have been, not many have been as welcoming as this.
The next days were spent visiting the local artists and artisans. Paintings, papier mache, wooden boats, sculptures and woodcrafts are all over town. Some have joined a large art-school/collective called Fosaj. I was already, and certainly now am a huge fan of Haitian art. We actually left town with 5 paintings. 4 from local Jacmel artists. The art scene in Jacmel is a huge reason to go there.
We also went to a Haitian cockfight, which was almost exactly like the ones we have been to in our batey here on the dominican side. But that is not so strange considering that the majority of the people in our batey are Haitian.
We checked out the nearby beaches and villages. All beautiful, besides the stubborn trash problem that is so effervescent in Haiti. But Cyvadier Plage for instance was beautiful, sheltered and clean.
In any case I think there are better beaches elsewhere in Haiti, but they also have beaches in Jacmel.
But the reason to go really is Haiti’s culture and history. It is so rich, unique and strong it is pretty amazing how few people talk about it. I myself knew nothing before I started planning. Their history reads like a shakespearean tragedy. It starts with an amazing inspirational revolution against an almighty evil enemy, and is followed by 200 years of dictators, occupation, economic sanctions and ruin, poverty, disaster and failure. Everything that could fail has failed, it is really quite amazing how they still persevere. And let’s not forget that their culture is unique in the world, and its richness permeates everything you see. The music, the art, the people are all deeply connected to vodou and its rituals. And it’s far from the scary black magic satan worship all the christian missionaries and white people reported back in the 1930s. It is fascinating and a completely unique experience.
After going, I have read a lot about Haiti, it has become my new obsession, the ultimate underdog that is due a major win. It is really such an incredibly interesting place. Part of the reason for me writing all these posts is that I am hoping it can help convince someone with hesitations to go regardless of the exaggerated warnings. It is shameful how forgotten this amazing country is by tourism, as it really is just amazing. In fact I think anyone with an inkling of interest (and some previous travel experience) should put this country on their list. It is heartbreaking, hard and more expensive then you think, but it is so worth it. I will never forget it, and I believe I will return.
Ayti Cheri, thank you so much.